Stretch novelty yarn and method of making same



March 14, 1967 v J. w. SUSSKIND ETAL 3,308,615

STRETCH NOVELTY YARN AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed March 10, 1965 aSheets-Sheet 1 FIG. 1 A 1 7a z I N VEN TORS Juli/2 [isms/Wild &mliiamfiim'li'iiyai ATTORNEYS- Mgrch14, 1967 J. w. SUSSKIND ETAL3,308,615

STRETCH NOVELTY YARN AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed March 10, 1965 3Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG; 4

00E fit-PEA 7' By @JSG ATTOIYIVEYS- March 14, 1967 J,W. SUSSKIND ETAL3,303,615

STRETCH NOVELTY YARN AND METHOQ OF MAKING SAME Filed March 10, 1965 5sheets-sheet 5 FIG. 7

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United States Patent 3,308,615 STRETCH NOVELTY YARN AND METHOD OF MAKINGSAME John W. Susskind, Narberth, and William B. Susskind,

Wynnewood, Pa., assignors to Clifton Yarn Mills, Inc.,

Clifton Heights, Pa., a corporation of Delaware Filed Mar. 10, 1965,Set. No. 438,481 17 Claims. (Cl. 57-144) This invention relatesgenerally to yarns, and particularly to new stretch novelty yarns, tomethods of producing the same, and to fabrics made of such yarns.

An important object of the invention is to combine a plurality of spunor filament yarns, of natural, vegetable, or man-made fiber, with anelastic thread or threads to produce a new composite novelty yarn whichmay be used in making or decorating fabrics knitted by hand or machine,woven, or otherwise produced.

Another object is to provide such a composite yarn characterized by aneffect thread wrapped about a core thread so as to form along the lengthof the core thread node-like formations arranged generally in accordancewith a predetermined pattern which gives the desired novelty effect.

Another object is to provide such a composite yarn in which the core andeffect threads thus combined are in turn wrapped about the elasticthread so that when the composite thread is permitted to relax thecombination of core and effect threads form randomly along the length ofthe elastic thread relatively prominent nodelike loops extendingrandomly from the elastic thread in all directions.

Another object is to provide such a novelty yarn which substantiallyretains its characteristic appearance when stretched.

Another object is to provide such a novelty yarn in which the elasticthread functions to secure the effect thread against displacementlongitudinally of the core thread and to thereby substantially fix thedesired novelty effect.

Another object is to provide a method for producing such yarn wherebyfirst a given length of the core thread is wrapped with a greater lengthof the effect thread and then a given length of suitably tensionedelastic thread is wrapped with a greater length of the combined core andeffect threads.

Other objects of the invention will become apparent when the followingdescription is read with reference to the accompanying drawings, inwhich:

FIGURE 1 is a schematic view of apparatus that may be used to combinethe non-elastic core and effect threads in a first operation inaccordance with the invention;

FIGURE 2 is a schematic view of apparatus that may be used to combinethe elastic thread with the non-elastic core and effect threads in asecond operation in accordance with the invention;

FIGURE 3 is a view showing a stretch nub yarn made in accordance withthe invention;

FIGURE 4 is a view of the combined non-elastic core and effect threadsresulting from the initial operation, shown in FIGURE 1, in theproduction of the stretch nub yarn of FIGURE 3;

FIGURE 5 is a view of the yarn illustrated in FIG- URE 3, but in fullyelongated condition;

FIGURE 6 is a view showing a stretch worsted ratine yarn made inaccordance with the invention;

FIGURE 7 is a view of the combined non-elastic core and effect threadsresulting from the initial operation in the production of the stretchworsted ratine yarn of FIGURE 6; and

3,308,615 Patented Mar. 14, 1967 ice FIGURE 8 is a view of the yarnillustrated in FIG- URE 6, but in fully elongated condtion.

The following description is directed to the specific forms of the yarnillustrated in the drawings, and to the described methods of producingthe same. It is not intended to be addressed to the scope of theinvention, which may be practiced in a variety of forms.

Referring to FIGURE 1, in a first operation, a core thread 10 is passeddownwardly through the nip of a pair of rolls 12, a pigtail guide 14 anda traveler 16 on the ring 18. From the traveler 16 it passes to a bobbin20 on a rotating spindle 22. In addition, an effect thread 24 is passedhorizontally through the nip of a pair of rolls 26, over a guide 28 anddownwardly with the core thread 10 through the pigtail guide 14 and thetraveler 16 to the bobbin 20.

The core thread may be two ends of SO-lea linen positively fed throughthe nip of the rolls 12. The effect thread may be one end of 300 denier,44 filament dull rayon positively fed through the nip of the rolls 26.For each 10.3 inches of the core thread 10 fed by the rolls 12, 17inches of the effect thread 24 are fed by the rolls 26.

The bobbin 20 rotates at a predetermined rate, and as it rotates thecore thread 10 and the effect thread 24 are twisted together. After thetwisting action, the two threads will be intertwined so that the corethread 10 will take up resistance to lengthwise pull to prevent damageto the effect thread 24.

Referring particularly to FIGURE 4, which shows the combination of coreand effect threads wound on the bobbin 20, the effect thread 24 wrapsabout the core thread 10 with rather tight long-pitch turns, as at 30,rather tight small-pitch turns forming nubs, as at 32 and 33, and looselong-pitch turns forming node-like loops, as at 34. The node-likeformations, i.e., the nubs and node-like loops, are arranged along thelength of the core thread approximately in accordance with apredetermined pattern, and the node-like loops extend randomly from thecore thread in all directions. The pattern aforesaid consists of repeatsof a predetermined arrangement of nubs and node-like loops formed byinterrupting or varying the delivery ratios of the rolls 12 and 26 in apredetermined manner or by other means well known to the novelty yarnart.

Now referring to FIGURE 2, in a second operation, an elastic thread 36is passed downwardly through the nip of a pair of rolls 38, a pigtailguide 39 and a traveler 40 on a ring 42. From the traveler 40 it passesto a bobbin 44 on a rotating spindle 46. In addition, the combination ofcore and effect threads is passed horizontally through the nip of a pairof rolls 48, over a guide 50 and downwardly with the elastic thread 36through the pigtail guide 39 and the traveler 40 to the bobbin 44.

The elastic thread 36 may be one end of denier, monofilament, zero twistspandex positively fed at a uniform rate through the nip of the rolls38. Between the rolls 38 and the bobbin 44 the spandex thread issuitably tensioned, and for each 6.7 inches of spandex thread (measuredwhile suitably tensioned) fed at a uniform rate by the rolls 38, 10.3inches of the combination of core and effect threads are fed at auniform rate by the rolls 48. The bobbin 44 rotates at a predeterminedrate, and as it rotates, the combination of core and effect threads andthe spandex thread are twisted together. After the twisting action, thecombination of core and effect threads and the spandex thread will beintertwined so that the core thread will take up resistance tolengthwise pull to prevent damage to the spandex thread, as well as tothe effect thread. The direction of twist for this second operation isopposite to the direction of twist for the first operation.

Referring particularly to FIGURE 3, which shows the finished compositeyarn, the combination of core and effect threads wraps about the relaxedspandex thread in such a way as to form node-like loops 52 and 54, thelatter of which curl upon themselves, as shown. The node-like loops 52and 54 are formed randomly along the length of the spandex thread andextend randomly from the spandex thread in all directions. In thefinished composite yarn, the core, effect and binder threads constitute50.39%, 41.91% and 7.7%, respectively, of the total yarn weight.

Now referring to FIGURE 5, which shows the yarn of FIGURE 3 stretched tothe full capacity of the core thread, it will be noted that thecombination of core and effect threads retains its novel appearance whenthe composite yarn is stretched. This is largely due to the action ofthe spandex thread 36, which acts to fix the effect thread 24 inposition longitudinally of the core thread during elongation andcontraction of the composite yarn.

Referring to FIGURE 7, which illustrates thecombined non-elastic coreand effect threads resulting from the initial operation in theproduction of the stretch worsted ratine yarn of FIGURE 6, the effectthread '56 wraps about the core thread 58 with rather tight longpitchturns forming node-like loops, as at 60, and loose long'pitch turnsforming node-like loops, as at 62, some of which curl upon themselves,as at 64. The node-like loops are arranged along the length of the corethread approximately in accordance with a predetermined pattern andextend randomly from the core thread in all directions. The patternaforesaid consists of repeats of a predetermined arrangement of tightand loose, loop forming turns of the effect yarn.

Referring particularly to FIGURE 6, the combination of core and effectthreads wraps about the relaxed spandex thread 66 with rather tightlong-pitch turns, as at 68, and

'with long-pitch turns forming node-like loops 70 and 72,

the latter of which curl upon themselves, as shown. The node-like loops70 and 72 are formed randomly along the length of the spandex thread andextend randomlyfrom the spandex thread in all directions.

The core thread may be one end of 30s worsted and one end of 70 deniernylon positively fed through the nip of the rolls 12. The effect threadmay be one end of 23s worsted positively fed through the nip of therolls 26. For each 10.25 inches of the core thread fed by the rolls 12,20.5 inches of the effect thread are fed by the rolls 26. The elasticyarn may be one end of 70 denier spandex positively fed at a uniformrate through the nip of the rolls 38. For each 4.75 inches of spandexthread (measured while suitably tensioned) fed by the rolls 38, 10.25inches of the combination of core and effect yarns are fed at a uniformrate through the nip of the rolls 48. In the finished composite yarn,the worsted, nylon and spandex materials constitute 90.35%, 6.61% and3.04%, respectively, of the total yarn weight.

During the initial operation, the core and effect threads are twistedtogether in one direction so that the effect thread spirals about thecore thread. During the final operation, the combination of core andeffect threads and the spandex thread are twisted together in theopposite direction, which tends to untwist the combination of core andeffect threads, whereby to make it fuller and more open.

Referring to FIGURE 8, which shows the composite yarn of FIGURE 6stretched to the full capacity of the core thread, it will be noted thatthe combination of core and effect threads retains its novel appearancewhen it is stretched. Again, this is largely due to the action of thespandex thread, which acts as a binder to fix the effect thread inposition longitudinally of the core thread during elongation andcontraction of the composite yarn.

It will be understood that it is not intended to be limited to compositeyarns made of threads having the specific number of ends and made of thespecific materials shown and described. Any one of the threads may havea different number of ends and/or may be made of different materials.

While the elastic thread of the composite yarns shown and described isspandex, e.g., those sold under the tradenames Lycra or Vyrene, it isnot intended to be limited to this material for other materials may beemployed with good results, for example, rubber (covered or uncovered),stretch nylon, etc. When the elastic thread is spandex, the desiredelasticity is not realized until the yarn is subjected to a suitable wetheat treatment. Any wet heat treatment which effects shrinkage isappropriate, for ex ample, scouring, dyeing, etc. The wet treatment maybe administered to yarn in the form of skeins of banks thereof, or tothe yarn after it is woven or knit into a fabric. It will be noted thatWhile composite yarns with spandex presently require a wet heattreatment to develop the desired elasticity, other materials may requiredifferent treatment, and in some instances no special treatment at all.

It will be understood that the embodiments of the composite yarn shownand described are merely exemplary, and that numerous variations arepossible. For exam le, short nubs consisting of a few turns of theeffect thread may be replaced by comparatively long slubs of many turnsof the effect thread. Single node-like loops may be replaced by doublenode-like loops. In addition, the nubs, slubs and single and doublenode-like loops which may be present in one repeat of the effect threadmay be an ranged in any desired order to create the characteristicdesired novelty effect. Almost any desired novelty effect may beobtained by one expedient or another known to the novelty yarn art. Inaddition, the final resulting yarn effect will be affected by the amountof tension applied to the elastic binder yarn during the manufacture ofthe composite yarn.

What is claimed is:

1. A composite stretch novelty yarn comprising a taut, straightnon-elastic core thread, an untensioned non-alas tic thread wrappedabout said core thread in one direction, slidable therealong and bulgingoutwardly therefrom in a. series of node-like formations that producethe charac'' teristic novelty effect, and an initially stretched elasticthread twisted in the opposite direction with said combined non-elasticthreads to form the finished composite yarn, said elastic thread beingoperative to bind said cf fect thread to said core thread and secure thesame against sliding therealong, said combined non-elastis; threadsbeing adapted to bulge outwardly in a series of node-like loops whensaid composite yarn is permitted to relax.

2. The yarn of claim 1 wherein the characteristic novelty effect isproduced by arrangement of the effect thread to form groups of node-likeformations, each group being arranged approximately in accordance with apre determined pattern and forming a repeat in a continuous seriesthereof extending the length of the core thread.-

3. The yarn of claim 1 wherein a given length of the non-elastic effectthread is greater than the length or non-' elastic core thread aboutwhich it is wrapped, and a given length of the combined non-elasticthreads is greater than the relaxed length of the elastic thread withwhich it is twisted.

4. A composite stretch novelty yarn comprising a nonelastic efiectthread wrapped about a non-elastic core thread in one direction so thatthe average diameter of wraps is substantially larger than the diameterof the portion of the core thread within the wraps, and an elasticthread twisted with the combined non-elastic threads in the oppositedirection, said effect thread being held about said core thread andsecured against sliding therealong solely by the intertwist of saidcombined non-elastic threads and said elastic thread, and said combinednonelastic threads and said elastic thread being so arranged that whenthe composite yarn is elongated said. combined non-elastic threads andsaid elastic thread are arrangedin a tight ply formation, and when thecomposite yarn is permitted to contract said combined non-elasticthreads bulge outwardly from said elastic thread.

5. The yarn of claim 4 wherein a given length of the non-elastic effectthread is greater by a predetermined amount than the length of nonelastic core thread about which it is wrapped, and a given length of thecombined non-elastic threads is greater by a predetermined amount thanthe relaxed length of the elastic thread with which it is twisted.

6. The yarn of claim 5 wherein each of the core, effeet and elasticthreads is free of adhesion to the others.

7. The yarn of claim 6 wherein the core thread consists of two ends of50-1ea linen, the effect thread is one end of 300 denier rayon, theelastic thread is one end of 140 denier spandex, and the core, effectand elastic threads constitute approximately 50.39%, 41.91% and 7.70%,respectively, of the weight of the composite yarn.

8. The yarn of claim 6 wherein the core thread consists of one end of30s worsted and one end of 70 denier nylon, the effect thread is one endof 23s worsted, the elastic thread is one end of 70 denier spandex, andthe worsted, nylon and spandex materials constitute approximately90.35%, 6.61% and 3.04%, respectively, of the weight of the compositeyarn.

9. A composite stretch novelty yarn comprising a nonelastic effectthread wrapped about a core thread so that the average diameter of wrapsis substantially larger than the diameter of the portion of the corethread within the wraps, and an elastic thread twisted with the combinedeffect and core threads, said effect thread being held about said corethread and secured against sliding therealong solely by the intertwistof said combined effect and core threads and said elastic thread, andsaid combined effect and core threads and said elastic thread being soarranged that when the composite yarn is elongated said combined effectand core threads and said elastic thread are arranged in a tight plyformation, and when the composite yarn is ermitted to contract saideffect and core threads bulge outwardly from said elastic thread.

10. A method of producing composite stretch novelty yarns whichcomprises advancing a non-elastic core thread into a twist zone,advancing a non-elastic effect thread into said twist zone and wrappingthe same about said core thread in one direction so that the averagediameter of wrap is substantially larger than the diameter of theportion of said core thread within the wraps, advancing the combinednon-elastic threads into a second twist zone, and advancing a tensionedelastic thread into said second twist zone and twisting it with thecombined non-elastic threads in the opposite direction so that theeffect thread will be held about said core thread and secured againstsliding therealong solely by the intertwist of said combined non-elasticthreads and said elastic thread, so that when said composite yarn iselongated said combined non-elastic threads and said elastic thread arearranged in tight ply formation, and so that when said composite yarn ispermitted to relax said combined nonelastic threads bulge outwardly fromsaid elastic thread.

11. The method of claim 10 wherein the non-elastic core thread ispositively fed into said first twist zone, the non-elastic effect threadis positively fed into said first twist zone at a higher rate than saidcore thread, the tensioned elastic thread is positively fed into thesecond twist zone, and the combined non-elastic threads are fed intosaid second zone at a higher rate than said tensioned elastic thread.

12. A method of producing composite stretch novelty yarns whichcomprises in a first operation passing a nonelastic core thread throughthe nip of a first pair of feed rolls into a first twist zone betweensaid first pair of feed rolls and the traveler of a first twister,passing a non-elastic effect thread through the nip of a second pair offeed rolls into said first twist zone and wrapping the same about saidcore thread in one direction in a sinuous, irregularly gathered path, ina second operation passing an elastic thread through the nip of a thirdpair of feed rolls, passing the combined non-elastic threads through thenip of a fourth pair of feed rolls and twisting it with the combinednon-elastic threads in the opposite direction so that when saidcomposite yarn is elongated said combined non-elastic threads and saidelastic thread are arranged in tight ply formation, and so that whensaid composite yarn is permitted to relax said combined nonelasticthreads bulge outwardly from said elastic thread.

13. The method of claim 10 wherein the core thread consists of two endsof 50-lea linen, the effect thread is one end of 300 denier rayon, theelastic thread is one end of 140 denier spandex, and the core, effectand elastic threads constitute approximately 50.39%, 41.91% and 7.70%,respectively, of the weight of the composite yarn.

14. The method of claim 10 wherein the core thread consists of one endof 30s worsted and one end of denier nylon, the effect thread is one endof 23s worsted, the elastic thread is one end of 70 denier spandex, andthe worsted, nylon and spandex materials constitute approximately90.35%, 6.61% and 3.04%, respectively, of the weight of the compositeyarn.

15. The method of claim 10 wherein the yarn is subjected to a wet heattreatment for a period of time sufficient to develop elasticity.

16. A method of producing composite stretch novelty yarns whichcomprises advancing a core thread into a twist zone, advancing anon-elastic effect thread into said twist zone and wrapping the sameabout said core thread so that the average diameter of wrap issubstantially larger than the diameter of the portion of said corethread within the wraps, advancing the combined core and effect threadsinto a second twist zone, and advancing a tensioned elastic thread intosaid second twist zone and twisting it with the combined core and effectthreads so that the effect thread will be held about said core threadand secured against sliding therealong solely by the intertwist of saidcombined core and effect threads and said elastic thread, so that whensaid composite yarn is elongated said combined core and effect threadsand said elastic thread are arranged in tight ply formation, and so thatwhen said composite yarn is permitted to relax said combined core andeffect threads bulge outwardly from said elastic thread.

17. A fabric comprising a composite stretch novelty yarn in accordancewith claim 4.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,211,643 8/1940Bry 57144 2,324,989 7/1943 Alderfer 57152 2,731,789 1/1956 Holder 57-1603,264,816 8/1966 Jaggi 57-160 FRANK J. COHEN, Primary Examiner. JOHNPETRAKES, Examiner.

1. A COMPOSITE STRETCH NOVELTY YARN COMPRISING A TAUT, STRAIGHTNON-ELASTIC CORE THREAD, AN UNTENSIONED NON-ELASTIC THREAD WRAPPED ABOUTSAID CORE THREAD IN ONE DIRECTION, SLIDABLE THEREALONG AND BULGINGOUTWARDLY THEREFROM IN A SERIES OF NODE-LIKE FORMATIONS THAT PRODUCE THECHARACTERISTIC NOVELTY EFFECT, AND AN INITIALLY STRETCHED ELASTIC THREADTWISTED IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION WITH SAID COMBINED NON-ELASTIC THREADSTO FORM THE FINISHED COMPOSITE YARN, SAID ELASTIC THREAD BEING OPERATIVETO BIND SAID EFFECT THREAD TO SAID CORE THREAD AND SECURE THE SAMEAGAINST SLIDING THEREALONG, SAID COMBINED NON-ELASTIC THREADS BEINGADAPTED TO BULGE OUTWARDLY IN A SERIES OF NODE-LIKE LOOPS WHEN SAIDCOMPOSITE YARN IS PERMITTED TO RELAX.
 16. A METHOD OF PRODUCINGCOMPOSITE STRETCH NOVELTY YARNS WHICH COMPRISES ADVANCING A CORE THREADINTO A TWIST ZONE, ADVANCING A NON-ELASTIC EFFECT THREAD INTO SAID TWISTZONE AND WRAPPING THE SAME ABOUT SAID CORE THREAD SO THAT THE AVERAGEDIAMETER OF WRAP IS SUBSTANTIALLY LARGER THAN THE DIAMETER OF THEPORTION OF SAID CORE THREAD WITHIN THE WRAPS, ADVANCING THE COMBINEDCORE AND EFFECT THREADS INTO A SECOND TWIST ZONE, AND ADVANCING ATENSIONED ELASTIC THREAD INTO SAID SECOND TWIST ZONE AND TWISTING ITWITH THE COMBINED CORE AND EFFECT THREADS SO THAT THE EFFECT THREAD WILLBE HELD ABOUT SAID CORE THREAD AND SECURED AGAINST SLIDING THEREALONGSOLELY BY THE INTERTWIST OF SAID COMBINED CORE AND EFFECT THREADS ANDSAID ELASTIC THREAD, SO THAT WHEN SAID COMPOSITE YARN IS ELONGATED SAIDCOMBINED CORE AND EFFECT THREADS AND SAID ELASTIC THREAD ARE ARRANGED INTIGHT PLY FORMATION, AND SO THAT WHEN SAID COMPOSITE YARN IS PERMITTEDTO RELAX SAID COMBINED CORE AND EFFECT THREADS BULGE OUTWARDLY FROM SAIDELASTIC THREAD.